Sunscreen formulation: what R&D struggles with most between feel and protection
Sunscreen is often called the hardest category in a cosmetics lab. Shoppers want something light with no white cast, but protection and stability cannot be compromised. Here are the challenges people in the industry mention most.
Mineral-led formulas
- Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide carry a gentle image, but white cast and heaviness are the hurdles
- Particle size and dispersion tech help, but many say protection varies once dispersion slips
Chemical-filter-led formulas
- Light, clear feel is the upside, but complaints like eye sting can follow
- Allowed filters and limits differ by export country, so one formula rarely covers every market
Hybrids and shared challenges
- Tone-up, water resistance and makeup compatibility keep adding to the brief
- Since the recent overseas SPF retest controversy, batch-to-batch reproducibility is watched more closely
From consumer feedback, "no white cast and no stinging eyes" is still the most common request.
What is your team prioritizing in sunscreen formulas right now?
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