Ceramide NP, AP, EOP… What’s the difference between the types?
“Ceramide” is an ingredient you often see on Korean cosmetics ingredient lists. There are actually different types, and the letters after the name indicate differences in their structure.
Commonly seen ceramides
- Ceramide NP
- Quick overview
- Used most often. A basic ingredient for moisturizing and barrier care
- Ceramide AP
- Quick overview
- Often formulated together with NP
- Ceramide EOP
- Quick overview
- A type with long chains involved in the skin’s barrier structure
| Name | Quick overview |
|---|---|
| Ceramide NP | Used most often. A basic ingredient for moisturizing and barrier care |
| Ceramide AP | Often formulated together with NP |
| Ceramide EOP | A type with long chains involved in the skin’s barrier structure |
Roughly speaking, NP, AP, and EOP are different “types of ceramide,” not a ranking from best to worst. They are all ingredients similar to the lipids in the stratum corneum, but their fatty acids and bonding structures differ.
It’s difficult to neatly divide their functions based only on the letters, as in “NP moisturizes, AP repairs.” The amount included, the overall formula, and the combination with other lipids such as cholesterol and fatty acids are also worth looking at. The order in which ingredients appear on the list doesn’t tell you the exact concentration of ingredients included in small amounts.
To start, it’s more practical to choose based on whether the product feels too heavy or absorbs well when you use it, rather than on the number of types. Which types do you see most often on ingredient lists?