Why is azelaic acid everywhere lately?
Azelaic acid is a common ingredient in products for redness, breakouts, and uneven skin tone. It’s known to be relatively gentle, so it also gets a lot of interest from people with sensitive skin.
- The concentration used in cosmetics varies by product
- It may tingle a little at first (this usually lessens as your skin adjusts)
- It’s best to avoid starting it on the same day as retinol or strong acids
What’s the best way to start using azelaic acid?
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It seems to be showing up so often lately because one ingredient can target several concerns at once, such as redness, post-breakout marks, and dullness. But “gentle” doesn’t mean it won’t irritate everyone; depending on the formula, concentration, and other ingredients, it may cause tingling or dryness.
If you’re new to it, I recommend starting with a low-concentration product 2–3 times a week, applying a small amount to completely dry skin, and using a moisturizer alongside it. Stop if the stinging persists or redness gets worse, and it’s generally best not to start it at the same time as retinoids or AHA/BHA. Be sure to use sun protection, too.
When checking ingredient lists in Korean stores, look for ‘아젤라익애씨드’ or ‘아젤라산’. Concentrations and directions vary by product, so follow the label first. If you have sensitive skin, it’s best to start with a patch test.